A former Patient

I have just spent 90 mins writing a piece of brilliance only to have the internet go off for the umpteenth time tonight! It’s not like this is the first time—so what a dummy I am!! From now on, no matter what, it is going to become a word document first.

Anyway, as I was saying, this is Amadou. He came in 2 years ago when Anita was here before and had a cleft lip repair. He stopped in the hospital on Tues morning to say hi to everyone and thanks and also, I’m sure, to show how good his lip looks! He is driving a taxi and offered his services very cheap. Gas here is so $4 /liter so it costs lots of own a car. Amadou drove us out to the Makasutu Cultural Forest, “holy place” in Mandinka. $20 pays for the entrance fee, a guide for 6 hours, a river trip, a jungle/savannah walk and lunch. On the way to lunch, you have to pass the greek chorus of vendors. The park was started by two Englishmen, James and Lawrence. We met James today at Mandina River Lodge, the most extravagant place to stay in all of Gambia. (Look it up on the internet and you’ll know why!) In 1992 they acquired 1500 hectars of land. In the intervening years they have preserved 150 villages around the reserve and also helped advance the 150,000 people living in those villages. Probably the biggest thing is the Kubuneh Health Clinic that is now run by a Dutch couple that came on vacation 6 years ago and haven’t gone home yet. The reserve is sort of a “Best of West Africa” with mangrove swamps (red mangrove is salt water and white is fresh), savannah, river, jungle, giant termite mounds, baboons, lizards and hundreds of birds. The blue bellied roller is a shimmery royal blue/turquoise crow-sized bird that has a white fuzzy head that make it look a little daft and like it just got out of bed. To see one up close is exciting even for me, a non bird watcher. The land had been deforested of mahogany, laburnum, and malina, mostly due to male potency teas and medicines. James and friend planted 15,000 trees and dug 47 wells to water them. The wells are still there with a bit of fetid water, but only 4 are still functional since the trees have grown big and strong and can take care of themselves. When they were working on the reserve, they discovered a Maribo, a medicine man/fortune teller. Not only have they let him and his family stay there, built them a house, but he’s been turned into a tourist attraction. He is now 98 years old, sells jujus ( we have to cut lots of these off kids prior to surgery since most are around their necks). You can take his photo, but it cost 100 dalasi (3.50) to have him tell your fortune and if something bad is in your future, he will tell you how to prevent it or decrease the impact. Heck of a deal for $3.50!