The aftermath of a tragedy

The entire trip I’ve been thinking about the massacre and the Oslo bombing and really didn’t hear much about it—until I got to Oslo.  Not that I hear much talk, but it is the headlines in every newspaper every day.  And surprisingly, there are many newspapers in Norway.  The cathedral would have just been another stop on my sightseeing before the “tragedy”, as everyone calls it.  The grounds around the cathedral are full of flowers—mostly red and white roses—some in piles that are 2-3 feet deep, candles in glass jars that burn for 24 hours are everywhere as are handwritten notes, pictures and cards.  So many visitors have trampled the grass around the church and between the dead flowers and dead grass, it looks like something catastrophic has happened to the church grounds.  Nothing has been cleared away and the piles of dead and dying flowers seem somehow symbolic.   Barricades still surround the church to keep the people and flowers out of the street so that traffic can continue to flow.  Inside the church, people mill around, light candles and it appears that extra candle holders have been erected to meet the need. Church personnel are scraping wax that has dripped to the floor and replensishing the candle supply. A box of candles was depleted in 15 mins.   A large bronze last supper has Christ and every disciple draped in flowers and notes with more being added.  The notes are in many languages, some with hand drawn pictures, some just messages and are layered on top of each other.  There is paper and pencil to write a note if you should desire with a disclaimer that whatever you write will be on display for everyone to read, and there is also a box to put notes that only the priest will read.

As emotional as the church scene was, the actual bombing site defies description.  It is a bit north of the cathedral, in an area where members of the Storting have their offices, not at the actual parliament building.   In addition to the MPs, the area has a high concentration of shops and residences--fairly high end.  I expected to walk up there and see a bombed out building, but for 6 square blocks, building are boarded up—some much worse than others.  Most are missing windows and 4X8 sheets of plywood are stacked along the streets.  The buildings that are not inhabitable and probably will be torn down have been left with the windows gaping open and curtains and window covering are blowing out in the wind.  Ceilings are missing in some, and furniture is scattered like if you tipped a doll house and everything slid back to the wall.  The 2-3 block area closest to the explosion is closed off and all that’s visible above fences are cranes and boarded up windows.   I walked through again at dusk and lights were coming on in some of the apartments next to a boarded up window with people visible inside. There are people like me looking at what happened, but most are walking by going about their daily routine.  Restaurants and cafes are open with people having coffee or a beer and laughing with friends across the street from a large container of twisted metal and wood that has been removed from surrounding buildings.  Some of the stores say "Apert" on the windows or doors--OPEN.  One restaurant I walked by had plywood around the entrance and one boarded up window, but people sitting at the tables having dinner.  This area is being guarded by soldiers—the police may not have guns but the military sure does!

My hotel is across from the Storting and about 8 blocks away from the bombing.  A young Aussie who works at the hotel was checking all the room doors to make sure they closed adequately.  Apparently they've had complaints since the bombing.  He told me his cousin working at another hotel a little further away, was in the cellar bring up wine when the blast occured and he could not only feel it, but hear it.  The Aussie guy was camping in the mountains with no communication with the outside world and missed the whole thing.  He returned to Oslo and many phone calls from  his parents in Australia.  How would have liked to have been in his parent's shoes for those few days?   

­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­Brevik is still in solitary confinement and is not allowed to watch television or see a newspaper.  He really wanted publicity for his cause and the government doesn’t want him to see any of the news about himself.   He's also complaining about solitary confinement and thinking it's unfair!  Even though the longest sentence a Norwegian can get for any crime is 21 years in prison, he will be tried under a special provision for traitors and terrorist like Norway had for war criminals, some of whom they executed—like Quisling.  (Remember my source for information about Brevik is people I talk to in cafes, in lines, and at museums!)   Quite a time to be in Oslo and see how a country deals with a tragedy of this magnitude.