The people in Jordan have been warm, inviting, and eager to
meet Americans. Women and men
unselfconsciously come up to us and want to talk. Young people learn English in school from
primary school, but it’s not common to meet people who are fluent in English,
even in tourist places. Our guide Nabil took us to his house to meet his wife,
Rayda and she needed to be dropped off at an engagement party.
Their home was spotless and very ornate. She was gracious and offered us tea and
cookies and she spoke no English. I was also quite surprised when she lit up a
cigarette! As we dropped off Rayda at the
engagement party, we passed the tent where the men were gathering. The house was a villa with a bright balloon
wreath on the door. Nabill explained the
engagement process to us. When a young
couple decides they want to marry, the young woman talks to her mother, who
arranges coffee with the mother of the young man. If all is well and the bride’s mother thinks
he’s “a good guy”, plans for the engagement move forward. The engagement party has the men from both
the bride and groom’s families meeting in a large tent that is set up for the
occasion to get to know each other. The
women of both families meet in a family member’s house.
The women were walking into the party with
long black robes and hajabs (the scarf head covering). As one woman walked by, her robe opened to
reveal—momentarily—a very short skirt and spike heels. As the women enter the house away from the
men, they are free to remove their robes and wear anything from tight jeans,
mini skirts, or in the case of Rayda, a form fitting long black rhinestone
studded dress with a plunging neckline.
This is a whole family affair, children are everywhere.
Yesterday, during our sight seeing to various Crusader
castles and Roman cities, Nabil took us to a former co-worker’s house for
coffee. It was a family house of a
mother and her two unmarried daughters.
Next door lived her sister-in-law and on the other side, her cousin, who
joined us. First we had a minted
lemonade, then were each presented with a plate with a banana, an apple, an
orange and a kiwi. Next Turkish coffee
and cookies. We left with a 5 gallon jug
full of home made olives and kumquats from their tree. These women were friendly, outgoing, and
smoke almost no English. The younger
woman who was Nabil’s friend worked as a waitress in one of the hotels in Amman. Her mother and cousin thought she was an accountant, and being a
waitress would bring shame on her family.
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